The Moors (Day 4 part 2)

The path up onto the moors from Heathwaite is well marked, and we met plenty of walkers. One couple who held a gate open for us had walked the coast to coast a dozen times. Like in the Lakes, the path was designed to help walkers and reduce erosion, so it wasn't great for riding.

Once up onto the plateau, those same paths made riding extremely easy, solid paths broken only by the regular gashes which allow water to drain off. No need for drainage today, but up on the exposed moors it did get quite windy.

Just when we were getting used to the path, the Cleveland way dropped down into a steep valley, and immediately back up again. Martin's skills both on the technical down hill, and hauling the bike back up meant he pulled away from me and had to stop and wait. Because the trail was skirting around the edge of the Moors, this happened three more times. On the map we could see a fourth coming up, so we decided to find another way around. Following cattle tracks we crossed a couple of fields through some trees and followed a trail through five foot ferns, chased by a swarm of flies (actually I was chased by a swarm of flies. Martin didn't seem to attract them at all) and rejoined the Cleveland Way at the foot of the next hill. It was a much more enjoyable route.

For the lengh of Urra, Ingleby and Battersby moors, the Cleveland Way was wide enough to drive a landrover, it's a road without vehicles, but in many places the road was rough and eroded so it was decent double-track riding. We met nobody; no vehicles and no walkers for mile after mile. There were sheep and all sorts of birds everywhere, but we could almost have been the only human survivors of the zombie apocalypse.

As we turned off the Cleveland Way and approached Hograh moor, we had a climb through the forest. There was some sign indicating that it had been ridden before on mountain bikes, but where we were ascending, the track would have been a whole lot better for downhill. The path then dropped down into a dip with a waterfall and a park bench, trees and memorials to a few people "In memory of XXX. He loved these moors" etc. It really felt like an oasis in the middle of the desert. We mucked around for a few minutes before heading on. It was only later that we discovered both our watches stopped right about the time we were sitting on that seat. freaky.

After the park bench everything changed. We were obviously on a trail regularly used by mountain bikers, and this time we were going the right direction. That trail down to Westerdale stands out in my mind as the best section of the entire trip. It was technical enough that it required full concentration, but fast enough that it was just a bit scary. I don't think I've ever ridden anything quite as good. we were tired after the day's ride, and I'd love to do that section again on its own when I'm fresh.

From Westerdale we didn't waste any time taking the roads to Castleton where we easily found Greystones B&B on the main street. After we wheeled our bikes round to the conservatory, Sean drove us over the valley to the Eskdale inn where we ate well and drank lots. the staff there were extremely friendly even though we were filthy and smelly after our day on the bikes. Neither of us drinks alcohol, but my lemonade came in a Magners glass, and I had a strange urge to order some. I got a half pint, but I was stuffed so I didn't even finish that. We burned off some of the excellent meal by walking back across the valley to the guest house where we had baths before going to bed. Youth Hostels are closing all across the country and it's obvious why. They offer basic accomodation, but yet their prices are not significantly lower than bed and breakfasts offering personal service and all the comforts of home.